Posted by: ilanasmith | July 5, 2007

En Provence

I’m not a big fan of crowds.  So little seems worth hundreds or thousands of people consuming availability, driving up prices, impeding passage.  You’ll never see me in Munich in October or in white in Pamplona.
 
In May and June, Denmark has a series of holidays which, if interpreted liberally, result in a bunch of long weekends more or less in a row.  I tee’d up all-sorts of fun stuff to do.  Sheer embarrassment prevents me from dislosing why I didn’t end up in Barcelona in May as planned, and stupid TechEd in stupid Florida in why I didn’t end up spending a June weekend in Prague, but I did manage to make it to the south of France for a lovely couple of days.  Unbeknownst to me, however, I managed to pick the one weekend where the Cannes Film Festival overlapped with the Monaco Grand Prix, and brought a Nimes feria and some sort of art thing in Aix along for the ride.
 
Needless to say, when I hit the Marseilles airport, and they’d lost my car reservation and had nothing available for days, things did not look good.  The problem did get fixed though (let’s say “through force of personality”) and I proceeded to belt about Provence and the like.
 
Beth’s characterization of Marseilles as a ‘terrible crumbling place’ meant I didn’t tarry long in that town.  I shot off to Carcassone to peer at medieval turrets for awhile (has Europe spoiled me that I feel cheated by 150 year old reproductions?), before toddling on back to Arles for the night.  Arles is a great city to wander around.  Some artist once lived there and painted the stuff when he wasn’t chopping off key parts of his own body – it can be fun wandering into a famous painting.
 
From Arles to Nimes to dodge a feria and peer at a Roman arena, to Pont du Gard to look at other old Roman business, to Avignon to stare at a pope’s palace, and a bridge and curse a catchy tune, through St Tropez and Cannes all along the Cote d’Azur to a night in Nice.  Which is nice enough, and the Salad Nicoise definitely worth it.
 
From Nice, I ventured into Monaco, missing the race by a day so I got to drive the course in my sporty Kia roller-skate as they packed it up around me.  At that point, my itinerary mostly ran dry, so I spent the day ambling back through Provencal countryside, admiring the grapevines and murderous sky.  My last night I spent in Aix-en-Provence, which seems to be a lovely city with gorgeous tree-lined streets that on a stormy day are a bit gloomy and ominous.  The weird confrontational dude in the street who almost pushed me down didn’t help my impression, though I did buy a great hat.
Posted by: ilanasmith | May 16, 2007

Denmarky-Mark

I quote: "I think more people should be called ‘Marky-Mark’.  And I should be one of them." 
 
Therefore: Marky-mark came to visit on the weekend, and in a turn of events that I thoroughly approve of, wrote it up so that I don’t have to: http://markpet.blogspot.com/2007/05/guds-hjlp-folkets-krlighed-danmarks.html 
Posted by: ilanasmith | May 1, 2007

Peter Pan Problems

One day I’ll grow up.  Until then, I find this cartoon freaking hilarious.
 
Posted by: ilanasmith | April 29, 2007

Wien

I decided to visit Vienna on the strength of it having more pages in my guide book than Geneva.
 
Vienna surpassed all my expectation: I stumbled upon some sort of outdoor wine festival, so not only saw people in lederhosen, and people playing the accordian, but also people in lederhosen dancing to accordian music.  They were doing the polka.
 
Everything had to be downhill after that high bar.  Checked out a bunch of museums, learning far more about modern Austrian art than at all necessary.  Caught up on the goings-on of the wacko Hapsburgs.  Ate strudel and schnitzel and Sachertorte (actually at the Hotel Sacher!).  Got to see Lippanzans training.
 
Seriously though.  Lederhosen.  Accordian.  Polka!
Posted by: ilanasmith | April 28, 2007

Marie vil ikke have en abort

For my upcoming Danish exam, I have to read three books.  They’re pretty basic, so I was expecting a spot of "See Spot run, see Spot jump", maybe a spot of Spot going to the bakery and ordering some french bread and skimmed milk, to take advantage of recent lessons.
 
Well, my first book is about a guy called Henrik, and he certainly goes to the shop.  However, after that, he goes to see his girlfriend Marie and she tells him she’s pregnant.  He wants her to get an abortion, because they’re too young and can’t afford a kid.  She says no and they break up.  When she has the kid, he comes to see it.  She asks him if he will be in the kid’s life.  He’s not so sure and has to think about it for a few more days.  Eventually, he comes around to the idea and they get back together.
 
It’s all a bit suprising when one is expecting running and jumping. There’s certainly a difference between beginner books for children and beginner books for adults.  Fewer pictures for one.
 
For my exam, I have to talk about one of my books for four minutes.  So I need to find the Danish for "too stupid to use birth control", "complete asshole" and "idiot to take him back". 
Posted by: ilanasmith | April 16, 2007

Pretty!

Okay, so the cow isn’t so pretty, but the rest of the photos certainly are.  Mark’s pics from our Ireland jaunt: http://markpet.smugmug.com/gallery/2711827#P-1-15 
 
Here’s Mark’s take on events too: http://markpet.blogspot.com/2007/05/wesht.html
 
  
 
     
Posted by: ilanasmith | April 12, 2007

Go Wesht, Life is Peaceful There

Since moving to the Northern Hemisphere, I’ve become much more aware of seasons.
 
At home, we don’t really do seasons.  For much of my life, the yearly weather change simply alternated between "The Wet" and "The Dry".  Even when I lived in places where the change was more interesting, it wasn’t reinforced by culture the way it is up on the top of the planet.  At home, Easter is in Autumn and Christmas is in Summer.  Cold Christmases are like squirrels and unicorns and mailboxes with flags – they’re something that only happens in books or movies.
 
It was fascinating to move to Seattle and have daffodils or orange leaves tell me what time of year it was, and to have holidays like July 4th or Halloween backed up by the weather.  And it was fascinating to be in Ireland at Easter and see tiny lambs tottering across green fields.  It’s all so dreadfully damn seasonal.
 
Back when I was in Ireland at the start of the year, it was deep dark Winter with short days that didn’t let us do much.  We made a plan that I would return in the Spring and we’d venture over to the West Coast for a bit of a look around.
 
We set out from Dublin last Thursday morning and belted briskly across the country to Galway.  (Being able to cross a nation in a few hours is a tad weird, but convenient.)  The weather was absolutely gorgeous the entire time I was in Ireland: blue skies, bright sun, slight breeze, warm enough (by my newly re-set standards).
 
There are definitely worse things in the world than cruising across green Irish countryside on a lovely Spring day, eating junk food and singing along loudly and badly to crap 90’s hits.
 
After lunch and a look at Galway, we set off for the Connemarra and a night in Clifden.  Conditioned for green hills and trees, the west side of Ireland is surprising.  It’s bare and bleak and rocky, but quite beautiful in its own way.
 
On Friday, we caught the ferry over to Inis Mor, the largest of the Aran Islands.  The Aran Islands are quite literally hunks of rock in Galway Bay.  What arable land there is has been created by hauling up sand and seaweed, and the islands are criss-crossed with hundreds of miles of stone walls.  We stayed quite near Dun Aengus, a fascinating Bronze Age fort perched high on a cliff.
 
The primary methods of getting around the island are mini-bus, horse-drawn carriage and bicycle.  We tried the first and the third.  I hadn’t been on a bike in 10 years, so that was a bit interesting, but it really is kinda like…well, you know.  It did lead directly to the refrain for the rest of the trip though – "My bum hurts".
 
On Friday evening, we rode the half hour trip from our B&B to the town of Kilronen for dinner.  It was Good Friday, most places were shut and it took a while for us to get fed.  By the time we were finished, it was pitch dark.  We rode back anyway.
 
Mark had a tiny dim little climbing headlamp, but it was still fairly terrifying.  We couldn’t see a thing.  The chances of riding directly into a limestone wall or (because we were terribly smart and took the flatter coast road) Galway Bay should not be underestimated.
 
But we survived to spend the next few days visiting The Burren, the Cliffs of Moher (or, as they’re known to the rest of us, the Cliffs of Insanity), the Ring of Kerry, the cute little city of Cork and the Rock of Cashel.
Posted by: ilanasmith | April 3, 2007

Super-Paul

I have a theory.
 
I think that all of us have a super-power, we just have to figure out what it is.  And we have to look past flying and invisibility; they’re much subtler than that.
 
Kb, for example, is always able to suggest the perfect drink for the occasion.  One of my co-workers is able to sense when food is being given away.
 
The Solomon Islands were hit by a tsunami on Monday.  Entire villages were flattened; the death toll is 28 and rising.
 
My step-dad Paul is currently running a gold mine on Woodlark Island, in the Solomon Sea.  He’s danced with tsunamis before; I mentioned it briefly here.  I can’t imagine how he must have felt, facing the potential for a similar situation.
 
Luckily, this time he had warning.  Mum, in Australia, heard what had happened in the Solomons and was able to warn Paul, who arranged evacuation.  They had damage, but no lives lost.
 
Paul might have those oft-mentioned handicaps of being Catholic and only having one eye, but it’s pretty clear what his super-power is.  Whatever mine is (perhaps coming up with weird theories), I’m sure it will pale beside saving people from natural disasters.
 
At times like these, I just want to thank that Catholic God.
Posted by: ilanasmith | April 2, 2007

A Decent Breakfast

Last weekend in London, Neil made a brilliant full fried breakfast.  It was so incredibly wonderful.   Breakfast in Copenhagen might be good, but the application of heat seems uncommon.  Even the bread is raw.  This seems strange to me, in the land that supplies Europe’s bacon. 
 
I’ve already made Mark agree to a big breakfast on my first morning in Ireland this weekend.  There will be grease, I say. 
 
A couple of times now, I’ve been pissed with various train problems and their interference with my gaining my rightful breakfast (the good, though not greasy, one at work), and detoured about København on a quest.  This morning, I jumped on the Metro and went to Christianshavn, to one of the best bakeries in town.  Denmark, where the Danish in Danish comes from, is pretty serious about its baked goods, and this place is fairly amazing.
 
I had two chocolate croissants (to chokolade croissanter).  Fresh from the oven.  Crispy on the outside, warm and gooey inside.  As good as you imagine it was.
 
My other quest was for great coffee.  I have Seattle-based standards for coffee, but I was confident that the place that employs the world barista champion could deliver.  Verdict: Meh.  Good coffee, but no Victrola.
Posted by: ilanasmith | March 23, 2007

Ancient Revelations

I’m thirty now, and at such an advanced age, it can be a bit weird to newly learn things that seems a bit obvious.

Sometimes it can be understandable.  It took living in a European city for me to learn that walking on cobblestones makes your ankles hurt because they have to keep compensating for the uneven surface.  Sometimes it’s not so understandable.

So I’ve packed a bag a few times in my life.  Only until the age of three did all my family live in the same city. From then on, I shuttled between them a few times a year: first to grandparents, and then between parents.  I went away to boarding school at thirteen, so that added a few extra back-and-forths a year, then away to university, then away to other hemispheres.

It was only this morning, when packing for a weekend trip to London to visit Rohan that I discovered that internal compression straps are for stopping all your crap from sliding to the bottom when you pick up a bag. 

I don’t think I’ve ever previously packed a bag and had the zipper close without a struggle.

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